1955-57-STOCK-STEERING-COLUMN-MODIFICATION-WITH-500-STEERING-BOX




1955-57 STOCK STEERING COLUMN MODIFICATION WHEN CONVERTING TO THE 500 SERIES POWER STEERING BOX

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY BEFORE COMMENCING ANY WORK
Please Note: As some precision cutting and welding is necessary, we recommend that you read the entire article through, and strongly suggest that you seek the assistance of a qualified machine shop. ALSO, the measurements used on our car worked perfectly for us but all cars tend to vary slightly and you should measure your particular car's requirement and double check all dimensions to assure that they will work for your specific car BEFORE CUTTING.

TOOLS NEEDED Set of screwdrivers Med. Clutch head driver 3/8” Ratchet 3/8” Small extension Set of sockets Set of wrenches Large adjustable wrench 3/16” Punch Medium ball peen hammer Scribe or sharp marker Piece of 2” angle iron, 12 “ long Drill & 3/16” bit Steering wheel puller Pitman arm puller	PARTS NEEDED Shortened Steering Shaft (PART#555715S) Steering Column Shift Arm Bracket (PART#5557OSCB) 500 Series Power Steering Box (PART#5000) Ragjoint (PART#605RAG-S)

COLUMN REMOVAL
The first process in the removal of the steering column is to remove the steering wheel and horn assembly.
1. Remove the horn ring cap and horn ring by removing the three Phillips head screws that secure it. Now you want to note the position of the pieces for re-assembly later.
Note: On Belair models the horn ring cap is retained either by a clutch head style screw which is removed from the under side of the steering wheel or clips.
2. Now using the ratchet, extension and 3/4” socket, remove the retaining nut that secures the steering wheel.
3. With the help of a steering wheel puller you can now remove the steering wheel.
4, With the wheel off you should now remove the spring and spring seat from the end of the shaft.
5. Remove the shifter arm by driving the pin out using the ball peen hammer and 3/16” punch. The spring on the ball end of the lever needs to be removed and retained.
6. Remove the neutral safety switch by first pulling the wires, noting the connector positions for re-assembly, then using the Phillips head screwdriver remove both retaining screws. The switch fastener ears are slotted to allow for adjustment during re-assembly.
7. Disconnect the turn signal/horn wiring harness located on the left side of the column under the dash.
8. On 55-56 vehicles, slide the rubber seal up far enough to allow you to get at the clutch head screw retaining the lower cover.
9. Remove clutch head screw and lower cover.
10. Remove upper cover using a medium sized flat head screwdriver to carefully pry off (it’s retained with spring clips).
11. Remove the shift indicator wire by unhooking the wire from the indicator needle assembly and the steering column wire loop.
12. Remove the inside steering column clamp by removing the two bolts using your 1/2” socket with a small extension. Be sure to inspect the rubber shim/insulator for damage or wear prior to re-assembly.
13. From under the hood, disconnect the transmission shift linkage rod at the steering column shift arm using a 1/2” wrench. Also remove the shifter arm detent from the bottom of the column using a 3/8” deep socket.
14. Disconnect and remove the lower clamp by removing the two bolts securing it with your 1/2” wrench and socket. The upper bolt must come out entirely. Slide the clamp down the housing and rest it on the steering box.
15. Clip off the protruding portion of the clips securing the steering column floor seal and push them through the firewall using the 3/16” punch and hammer if needed. The column assembly should be ready to come out.
STEERING BOX REMOVAL
1. Remove the 1-1/4” nut and washer that secure the pitman arm to the sector shaft.
2. Using the pitman arm puller, remove the pitman arm from the sector shaft.
3. Remove the three nuts securing the steering box to the frame (9/16”).
4. Remove the box by wiggling it off the frame then carefully moving it up and out. If the generator is in the way you may need to either loosen it and move it in or take it out completely.
500 SERIES STEERING BOX INSTALLATION
1. Bolt on box in the stock position.
2. Re-install the pitman arm on the sector shaft.
3. Install the new rag joint on the steering box. If all has been successful you should now be ready for the bench work.
FOR MORE DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS ON INSTALLING THE 500 SERIES POWER STEERING BOX, SEE "INSTALLATION OF 500 SERIES POWER STEERING BOX"
BENCH WORK
The first step is to separate the column mast jacket from the shifter tube.
1. Using your Phillips head screwdriver, disassemble the upper end of the column by removing the three retaining ring screws from the lock plate. One of the screws has no obstructions but you will have to move the turn signal in one direction or the other to remove the other two.
2. Remove the wire retainer clamp by unscrewing the retaining screw on the left side of the column at the entry slot.
3. Remove the wires from the retainer with a small flat head screwdriver.
4. Note: Be sure to mark exact location of each wire.
5. Remove the turn signal housing by pulling the entire assembly out through the top taking care not to damage any wiring or connectors.
6. Remove the lock plate, spacer and shift lever housing.
7. Disassemble the lower portion of the column by removing the three bolts and washers, using a 1/2” socket or wrench, then carefully removing the lower bearing.
8. You should now be ready to separate the shifter tube from the steering column and clean both parts.
We are now ready for the tube and steering column modification.
MODIFICATION
IMPORTANT - NOTE: THE CAR THAT WAS USED FOR THIS CONVERSION REQUIRED THE REMOVAL OF A 4” SECTION OF THE INNER AND OUTER STEERING COLUMN. YOUR CAR MAY NOT NEED TO HAVE 4” REMOVED. BEFORE CUTTING THE STEERING COLUMN AND INNER TUBE, MEASURE YOUR STEERING COLUMN FOR FIT AFTER YOU HAVE INSTALLED THE 500 BOX AS YOUR CAR MAY REQUIRE THAT YOU CUT OFF LESS THAN 4”.
THE STEPS BELOW PERTAIN TO BOTH THE STEERING COLUMN OUTER TUBE AND THE INNER SHIFT TUBE. BOTH TUBES MUST BE CUT.
1. First and quite possibly the most crucial part of this job, using a scribe or sharp marker and a piece of angle iron, (SEE PHOTO #3 and #4 BELOW) lay the tube in the angle iron and scribe a line about 12 inches long from the bottom of the mast jacket/steering column tube up. This important marking is going to enable you to properly align your column when it is welded back together.
2. You need to mark the tube and mast jacket for cutting. Our car required that we cut a four-inch section out starting three inches up from the bottom. THIS AMOUNT MAY VARY ON EACH CAR SO CAREFULLY MEASURE YOUR CAR’S REQUIREMENT BEFORE CUTTING**(SEE PHOTO #5 BELOW). So we measured up 3” (SEE PHOTO #1 BELOW) and made a scribe then we measured up an additional 4” (SEE PHOTO #2 BELOW) (or whatever your car’s requirement is) and made another mark with the scribe ending 7” up the mast. This next step is very important and this is where we recommend the assistance of a qualified machine shop. The four-inch section needs to be cut out and the two pieces need to be tig welded back together. Lay the cut pieces back into the angle iron and line up your scribe marks you performed in Step 1. Then weld the 2 pieces back together (SEE PHOTO #4 BELOW).
3. Install the shortened original inner steering shaft in the ragjoint. After installing the steering shaft in the ragjoint and on the sheeting box, drill a 3/16” hole through the ragjoint and shaft. Install a roll pin for security.
4. Cut off the old shifter arm, leaving a 1” long stub. Weld the new off-set shift lever (Part # 5557OSCB) to the bottom of the stub. This will allow the shift arm to clear the firewall for column shift. (SEE PHOTO #6 BELOW).
5. Repeat the above steps for shortening the shift tube. (SEE PHOTO #5 BELOW)







6. Reassemble the steering column and install in the car.
Note: The firewall will need to be slightly modified to allow for clearance of the shifter arm.

Classic Bowtie Connection is providing these instructions for your information only. We strongly recommend that the work be done by a professional welder/machinist and licenced mechanic only. This task should not be undertaken by the inexperienced hobbyist. Safety is the prime concern, and we accept no liability due to improper workmanship or installation