The wiring diagram for the engine electrical system is included with body and chassis electrical circuit diagrams in Section 12-Chassis Electrical.
Described below are a series of quick checks, which are designed to assist the serviceman in locating trouble within the various components of the engine electrical system. Additional checks, adjustments and overhaul of these components are also described elsewhere in the Engine Electrical Section (see Table of Contents) and should be made when required.
Measure the voltage between the "BAT" terminal of the regulator and ground at (1) idle speed, and (2) medium engine speed. The voltage should be higher at a medium engine speed than it is at idle speed. If it is not and the generator passes its tests above, make a complete check of the regulator. If voltage is higher at medium speed, the voltage regulator setting still may require adjustments as discussed previously under Steps 3 and 4 of BATTERY if the battery remains undercharged or uses too much water.
The following checks may be made if the specific gravity of the battery is 1.215 or higher.
If the engine does not run, the ignition system may be at fault if:
If these checks indicate trouble in the ignition system, follow
the procedure outlined under Ignition Circuit-Checks and Adjustments
on the Vehicle. This procedure may also be helpful in locating
trouble in the ignition system if the car runs but not satisfactorily
(also see Section 6-Tune-Up).
Generating Circuit
The generating circuit includes the battery, generator, regulator, generator telltale light, and necessary wiring to connect these parts. The purpose of this system is to convert just enough mechanical energy from the engine into electrical energy to supply all electrically operated units and keep the battery fully charged. The simplified wiring diagram shown in Figure 1 illustrates this circuit.
The battery used on passenger models (fig. 2). is a 12 volt, 9 plate, 53 ampere hour negative grounded unit having a specific gravity of 1.260 - 1.280 at full charge.
A coated metal hold down, placed over the top of the battery, is attached to two bolts which fasten it to the battery support on the vehicle. At the positive terminal post of the battery is an oil soaked washer which aids in the prevention of formation of acids.
Batteries are equipped with "Visual Level" cell covers to facilitate checking electrolyte level and lessen the possibility of overfilling the battery. These covers have a long, circular, tapered vent well with two small vertical slots diametrically opposite. Viewed from above, with the battery vent plugs removed, the lower end of the vent well appears as a ring with small portions of the circumference missing. As water is added to the cell, the surface of the rising liquid contacts the slotted lower end of the vent well causing a distortion of the reflecting surface of the liquid which is very noticeable. Thus, the lower end of the vent well serves as a reference point in determining proper electrolyte level. The cell is properly filled when the surface of the electrolyte touches the bottom of the vent well. If some overfilling occurs, the amount can be estimated readily by the height of liquid in the vent well itself.
The battery has three major functions to perform on the vehicle.
In order for the battery to continue to function it is necessary that the current withdrawal from the battery be balanced by current input from an external source so that the battery is maintained in a charged condition. The efficiency of a battery, therefore, is in direct proportion to its state of charge. To obtain the maximum efficiency whatever amount of current is withdrawn from the battery must be compensated for by running the generator long enough to restore the battery to the condition known as "charged".
The generator (fig. 3) is a 12-volt, 25-ampere, two brush shunt unit. The extruded frame of the generator has two pole shoes attached to it, 180' apart, around which are located the field coils. The armature is centered between the pole shoes and is supported by a ball bearing at the drive end and a porous bronze bushing at the commutator end. On power steering models, the commutator end of the armature is used to drive the power steering pump and is supported at this end by a ball bearing in lieu of a bronze bushing. The end plates have openings for circulation of air for cooling. Air is circulated through the generator by the combined pulley and fan that are mounted on the front end of armature shaft. Brush holders mounted inside the generator housing hold the brushes in correct position under spring tension against the armature commutator. One brush is grounded to the frame while the other is insulated from the frame.
The insulated brush is connected to the positive "A" terminal of the generator and to one terminal of the field coils (fig. 4). The other end of the field coils is connected to the insulated field "F" terminal of the generator.
In order for the generating system to operate the positive wire from the generator armature terminal must be connected to the generator (GEN) terminal of the regulator, the wire from the field terminal of the generator connected to the field (F) terminal of the regulator and the wire from the battery to the battery (BAT) terminal of the regulator (fig. 1). Generator output is controlled by a current and voltage regulator.
The three-unit, 12 volt regulator (fig. 5) provided on all passenger car models is designed for use with a negative grounded battery and a shunt type generator. The regulator, which is mounted on the radiator filler baffle below the horn relay (fig. 39), contains a cutout relay, a voltage regulator unit and a current regulator unit.
A ground wire from the generator ground screw on the generator body, to the mounting screw of the regulator serves to ground the voltage regulator and sheet metal of the car to the generator. Also, a short heavy wire connects the battery terminal of the regulator to the positive terminal of the battery thus insuring more efficient charging of the battery.
The purpose of the cutout relay is to close and open the charging circuit between the generator and battery. When the generator voltage reaches the value for which the cutout relay is adjusted, the contact points close and current flows from the generator toward the battery. When generator voltage falls below battery voltage, the contact points open to prevent battery discharge through the generator while the engine is idling or stopped.
he purpose of the voltage regulator unit is to limit the system voltage to a safe maximum. Vibrating contacts of the voltage regulator limit voltage by intermittently inserting resistance in the generator field circuit as required. With system voltage properly limited, electrical components are protected and the battery is not subject to excessive overcharging.
The purpose of the current regulator unit is to prevent overheating of the generator armature by limiting generator output. Vibrating contacts of the current regulator limit current output by intermittently inserting resistance in the generator field circuit as required.
GENERATOR TELLTALE LIGHT
The generator telltale light, located in the instrument cluster, is connected in a circuit with the battery and the generator (fig. 1). With the ignition switch turned ON and engine off, the indicator will light up denoting no generator output to the system, in which case the battery is supplying all the demands (battery discharging).
As the generator voltage is increased after starting, it will oppose the battery voltage to the telltale light and close the cutout relay points, causing the indicator light to go out. With the cutout relay points closed, generator output is supplied to the system.
With the indicator light off current may be flowing to or from the battery depending upon the loads imposed upon the system and the generator output at any particular time.
Therefore the telltale light functions primarily as an indicator
of generator output, not necessarily of current flow to or from
the battery as in the case of the ammeter. If the indicator light
is not functioning properly, see Generating Circuit-Checks and
Adjustments on the Vehicle in this section. Replacement of the
generator light is described in Section 12-Chassis Electrical.
Periodic Servicing
Liquid level in the battery should be checked at least every 1,000 miles or once every two weeks. If the liquid level is found to be low, water should be added to each cell until the liquid level rises to the bottom of the vent well. Do not overfill! Distilled water, or water passed through a "demineralizer," should be used for this purpose in order to eliminate the possibility of harmful impurities being added to the electrolyte. Many common impurities will greatly shorten battery life. Do not add any substance to the electrolyte except water.
The external condition of the battery and the battery cables should be checked periodically. The top of the battery should be kept clean and the battery hold-down bolts should be kept properly tightened. Particular care should be taken to see that the tops of 12-volt batteries are kept clean of acid film and dirt because of the high voltage between the battery terminals. For best results when cleaning batteries, wash first with a dilute ammonia or soda solution to neutralize any acid present and then flush off with clean water. Care must be taken to keep vent plugs tight so that the neutralizing solution does not enter the cell. The hold-down bolts should be kept tight enough to prevent the battery from shaking around in its holder, but they should not be tightened to the point where the battery case will be placed under a severe strain.
To insure good contact, the battery cables should be tight on the battery posts. If the battery posts or cable terminals are corroded, the cables should be disconnected and the terminals and clamps cleaned separately with a soda solution and a wire brush. After cleaning and before installing clamps, apply a thin coating of petrolatum to the posts and cable clamps to help retard corrosion.
The hinge cap oilers of the generator should be filled with light engine oil once at each vehicle lubrication period.
Periodic servicing of the generator should include an inspection of the commutator and brushes for cleanliness and wear. If the commutator is dirty it should be cleaned as outline under Generating Circuit-Checks and Adjustments on the Vehicle in this section. If the brushes are worn down to less than half their original length, they should be replaced.
Normally, periodic servicing of the regulator is not required.
However, it may occasionally be necessary to clean the regulator
contact points as outlined under Generating Circuit-Servicing
of Units Off The Vehicle.
Checks and Adjustments on the Vehicle
Generator Telltale Light
Wiring
Battery
Regulator
Voltage Regulator Setting
Cutout Relay Closing Voltage
Current Regulator Setting
Generator Telltale Light
If the indicator light stays on after the engine is started and run above idle speed, the generator should be checked. If light stays on at idle only, check for a low idle speed. Also check to see that the generator field is properly grounded. by connecting a jumper wire from generator field terminal to ground with engine running at medium speed.
If light goes out after connecting jumper wire, then cause of
trouble is an improperly grounded generator field circuit. If
the light does not go on with the ignition switch ON and engine
OFF, the indicator bulb should be checked and the telltale light
circuit inspected for the possibility of an open circuit or loose
connections.
Wiring
Excessive voltage drop (resistance) in the charging circuit tends to keep the battery in an undercharged condition. To check for excessive voltage drop (resulting from loose connections or other high resistance) in the generating circuit, make connections as shown in Figure 6 and proceed as follows:
If excessive resistance is found, check the wiring for defects,
and replace if necessary. Correct poor ground connections and
clean and tighten all connections.
Battery
Three battery checks are described herein to determine in a minimum amount of time the condition of the battery.
If a battery failure is encountered the cause may lie outside the battery itself. DO NOT BE SATISFIED TO MERELY RECHARGE OR REPLACE IT. FIND THE CAUSE OF FAILURE AND PREVENT RECURRENCE OF TROUBLE.
The hydrometer test is merely a means of determining the state of charge of the battery. This test will not necessarily indicate whether the battery is able to perform its normal functions, such as starting.
To determine whether a battery is a good battery, regardless of its state of charge, proceed with the Battery Capacity Test.
This test is one means of determining whether a battery is functioning efficiently to the degree where it can be relied upon to perform all of its duties properly in the vehicle.
A 12 volt battery that will maintain 9.0 volts or better during a battery capacity test should be considered a good battery. To make this test use equipment that will apply a heavy electrical load to the battery with a carbon pile or other suitable means. NOTE: If test equipment is not available for loading battery, the starting motor may be used as a load.
In cases where a voltage of less than 9.0 volts is obtained in the Battery Capacity Test described above, an accurate test using a volt-meter and a fast charger will quickly establish in three to four minutes whether a battery is good or bad even when the battery is in a discharged condition. This procedure determines the condition of charged or discharged batteries by following the principles that:
a. A charged battery may be tested by taking current out of
it.
b. A discharged battery may be tested by passing current through
it.
This test should not be used if battery temperature is below 60 degrees F.
If battery temperature is above 50 degrees F., add battery water, if necessary, and proceed with the Three Minute Battery Test described on the following page.
CAUTION: Do not make this test, which is recommended for discharged
batteries, if voltage obtained in battery capacity test is 9.0
or more. A charged battery will not accept 40 amperes without
an excessively high voltage.
Regulator
Four regulator electrical checks can be made on the car-the settings of the cutout relay, voltage regulator, and current regulator, and a check for oxidized regulator contact points. Mechanical checks and adjustments requiring removal of the regulator from the car are discussed under Generating Circuit Servicing of Units Off the Vehicle.
The regulator must have the cover in place and must be at operating temperature when the electrical settings are checked. Operating temperature shall be assumed to exist after not less than 15 minutes of operation at a charging rate of 8-10 amperes. For best results, the electrical checks should be made in the following order:
The following procedures are required for making each of these checks:
A method for checking and adjusting the voltage regulator setting is discussed below. However, it is seldom necessary to check and adjust the voltage regulator setting so long as (1) the battery remains satisfactorily charged without excessive use of water and (2) there is no evidence of damage to lights or other voltage sensitive equipment. To check the voltage regulator setting, proceed as follows:
CAUTION: Final adjustment should always be made by increasing spring tension to assure contact between the screw head and spring support. Sometimes the spring support does not follow the screw head as spring tension is decreased, and it will be necessary to bend the spring support up to insure contact between the spring support and screw head before final adjustment is completed (fig. 12). Failure of the voltage regulator unit to "hold" its setting usually results from (7) setting or checking the voltage regulator at other than operating temperature, and (2) the screw head not touching the spring support after final adjustment is complete.
Before taking the reading after each adjustment, replace the regulator cover as quickly as possible and cycle the generator.
The voltage regulator "Normal Range" setting specifications described in this section refer to a regulator which has been brought to a stabilized operating temperature at an ambient temperature of 125F. (Ambient temperature is the temperature of the air surrounding the regulator approximately 1/4 of an inch from the regulator cover.) Since the stabilized operating temperature of the regulator varies with the ambient temperature, the voltage regulator "Normal Range" setting varies accordingly. Figure 13 illustrates the normal range settings at various ambient temperatures and how the voltage regulator setting varies at different ambient temperatures as indicated by the vertical line.
Through the use of the table shown in Figure 13 it is possible to determine correct voltage readings at any ambient temperature from 4° to 165°F.
When the "corrected" voltage regulator setting falls within the normal range given in the specifications and the battery condition has been satisfactory after a reasonable period of operation with this setting, the voltage regulator setting should not be disturbed.
When the "corrected" voltage regulator setting falls inside or outside the normal range given in the specifications but battery condition has been unsatisfactory after a reasonable period of operation with this setting, tailor the voltage regulator setting as described under Tailoring the Voltage Regulator Setting below.
The desired voltage regulator setting is that which keeps the battery in a satisfactory state of charge without causing excessive water usage (as evidenced by water consumption exceeding one ounce per cell each 1000 miles). In order to obtain the desired setting, tailor the voltage regulator setting as follows:
NOTE: Avoid "corrected" settings above 14.8 volts as these may cause damage to lights and other voltage-sensitive equipment.
It rarely will be found necessary to use a voltage regulator setting outside the normal range in order to correct battery conditions. Batteries which do not respond to voltage regulator settings within the normal range usually will be found to be (1) batteries used in cars that are operated consistently at low speeds or in heavy traffic, or (2) batteries that have abnormal charging characteristics.
(1) When a car is operated consistently at low speeds or in heavy
traffic, the battery may remain
undercharged even with a voltage regulator setting of 14.8
volts. Under these operating
conditions, generator output and charging time may be insufficient
to offset electrical loads on
the battery. Periodic recharging of the battery from an
outside source or replacement of the
original generator with a special generator or the use of
a special service generator pulley will
be required in these cases.
(2) Batteries suspected of having abnormal charging characteristics
should be given a complete check.
If the checks outlined under Generating Circuit-Checks and
Adjustments on the Vehicle indicate
that the battery is still serviceable, a voltage regulator
setting outside the normal range may be
adapted provided it does not cause damage to lights or other
voltage-sensitive equipment.
On new cars or on other applications where no battery history
is available, any "corrected" voltage regulator setting
found within the normal range may be considered satisfactory unless
local conditions or subsequent battery performance indicate the
need for tailoring the voltage regulator setting.
Cutout Relay Closing Voltage
Any setting that falls within the allowable limits given in the specifications is satisfactory so long as the setting is at least 0.5 volt below the voltage regulator setting. It is seldom necessary to check the closing voltage of the cutout relay as long as the relay functions to close and open the charging circuit.
Any setting that falls within the allowable limits given in the specifications is satisfactory. It is seldom necessary to check the setting of the current regulator unless the generator armature shows signs of overheating.
NOTE: Oxidized regulator contact points may be the cause of a low generator output or a discharged battery.
When belt tension is properly adjusted but the generator does
not perform satisfactorily on the car, inspect the commutator.
If the commutator is dirty, clean it by holding No. 00 sandpaper
or a cleaning stone against it while the generator is operating
at idle speed. Never use emery cloth to clean the commutator.
If this does not satisfactorily improve generator performance
the generator should be removed from the car for a thorough check
as outlined under Generating Circuit-Servicing of Units Off the
Vehicle.
Servicing of Units off the Vehicle
Battery
Generator
Regulator
Radio By-Pass Condensers
Polarizing the Generator
Battery
Batteries may be tested off the vehicle in the same manner as described under Generating Circuit-Checks and Adjustments on the Vehicle. Common Causes of Battery Failure When a battery fails, the cause of failure may lie outside the battery itself. For this reason when a battery failure is encountered, do not be satisfied to merely recharge or replace it. Find the cause of failure and prevent recurrence of the trouble.
Listed below are some of the common causes of battery failure:
Batteries removed from the car for charging should be charged continuously at a low rate until fully charged. Batteries may be safely slow charged at a rate in amperes equal to 7% of the battery's ampere-hour capacity. Ex. 751c of 53 A.H. = 3.7 amperes. This is called the "normal" charge rate. The battery is fully charged when specific gravity readings taken at hourly intervals show no increase during three consecutive readings. Badly sulphated batteries may require a continuous slow charge for 48 hours or more before a rise in gravity readings occurs. If the specific gravity reading of any cell fails to reach 1.250 (corrected to 80'F.) or if there is a variation of more than 25 points between cells after thorough slow charging, replace the battery.
Although the slow-charge method is recommended for charging all batteries, discharged batteries in otherwise good condition (see Battery Capacity Test) may be given a "boost" with a fast charger if time does not permit complete slow charging. When using a quick charger, it must be remembered that the battery is only receiving a partial charge and that the battery electrolyte temperature must not be allowed to exceed 120F. If the battery heats excessively, quick charging must be discontinued. New Vehicles in Stock
Before a new car is delivered to a customer, make sure the specific gravity of the battery electrolyte measures at least 1.250-preferably higher. Under no circumstances should acid be added to a new battery to increase the specific gravity of the electrolyte.
Wet Batteries
Storage batteries containing fluid electrolyte are commonly called "wet" batteries. Self discharge will cause wet batteries to become discharged and sulphated if they are not properly maintained in storage. To minimize self discharge, wet batteries should be stored in as cool a place as possible, so long as the electrolyte does not freeze. Storage of batteries at temperatures exceeding 60F. without frequent inspection and recharging is equivalent to the same use as in normal automotive service. A wet battery which has been allowed to stand idle for a long period of time may be so badly damaged by the growth of lead sulphate crystals (sulphation) in the plates that it can never be restored to a normal charged condition. Batteries should be recharged every 30 days to prevent damage of this kind. If storage temperature is high, more frequent charging will be necessary. Check electrolyte level of such batteries and add water if necessary before charging, to bring electrolyte to proper level.
Dry Charged Batteries
A "dry charge" battery contains fully charged positive and negative plates but no fluid electrolyte.
Dry charged batteries should be stored in a dry place away from excessive heat and moisture. 36 months of storage without maintenance produces no deterioration if the battery is properly stored.
Batteries "wet or dry" should be stored on independently supported shelves to avoid damage to battery directly below as in vertical stacking.
After Delco Electrolyte has been added to a dry charged battery, it is then a "wet" battery and should be maintained as any other "wet" battery.
To prepare Delco "dry charge" batteries for service use Delco Electrolyte. Delco Electrolyte is available in three individual containers packaged in one carton. The contents of one carton is sufficient for one battery. Care should be exercised in its use to prevent bodily injury or damage to clothing or other material resulting from actual contact with the electrolyte.
Electrolyte should be added to dry charged batteries in an area where water is readily available for flushing in case the electrolyte comes into contact with body. Refer to instructions on side of electrolyte container for antidotes to use if electrolyte comes into contact with the body.
It is strongly recommended that a person filling batteries with electrolyte wear glasses (preferably safety glasses) to prevent possible damage to the eyes should any spattering of the electrolyte occur. Filling the Battery
If brushes are worn to half their original length they should be replaced.
NOTE: When installing brush, position brush load to lock clip on stud for prevention of lead turning after brush wears. If tests are required immediately after the installation of new brushes, the brushes should be seated to the commutator by using a brush seating paste on the commutator. The soft abrasive material of the paste will be carried under the brushes and wear the brush faces to the commutator in a few seconds. Blow all dust from the generator. This will insure accurate readings. If immediate tests are not required, allow the brushes to seat themselves. This will take about 10 hours of operation.
Disassembly
Refer to Figure 25 for an exploded view of the generator.
Cleaning and Inspection
With the generator completely disassembled, except for removal of field coils, the component parts should be cleaned and inspected as described below. Field coils need be removed only where defects in the coils are indicated by the tests described below, in which case the pole shoe screws should be removed and the pole shoes and field coils disassembled. Amy defective parts should be replaced or repaired (see Generator Repairs).
Testing Generator Parts
Refer to Figure 4 for generator internal circuit diagram. Use a test lamp capable of detecting high resistance grounds.
Armature Test for Shorts
Check armature for shorts by placing on growler and with hack saw blade over armature core, rotate armature (fig. 30). If saw blade vibrates, armature or commutator is shorted. Recheck after cleaning between the commutator bars and if saw blade still vibrates, armature is shorted and must be replaced.
Armature Test for Ground
Using test lamp, place one test prod lead on armature core and other on each commutator bar (fig. 31). If lamp lights, armature is grounded and must be replaced.
Armature Test for Open Circuit
Check the armature for open circuits by making a bar-to-bar check as shown in Figure 32. Inconsistant variations in reading indicate an "open" armature.
Field Coil Test for Open Circuit
Using test lamp, place one test prod lead on field terminal on generator frame and the other test prod lead on the end of the field coil lead to the armature terminal (fig. 33). If lamp does not light, the field coils are open and must be replaced (unless a loose soldered connection is found at the field terminal).
Field Coil Test for Ground
Using a test lamp, place one test prod lead on ground (touch to generator frame) and other lead on field terminal on generator frame (fig. 34). Be sure free end of field wire is not touching ground and field terminal insulation is no broken. If lamp lights, the field coils are grounded. If ground in field coils cannot be located or repaired, coils must be replaced.
Positive Terminal Test for Ground
Using a test lamp, place one test prod lead on generator positive (armature) terminal on generator frame, and place other lead on ground on generator frame (fig. 35). Be sure loose end of terminal lead is not touching ground. If lamp lights, positive terminal insulation through generator frame is broken down and must be replaced.
Positive Brush Test for Ground
Using a test lamp, place one test prod lead on the positive or insulated brush holder and the other lead on ground. If lamp lights the brush holder is grounded due to defective insulation at the frame (fig. 36).
Repairs
When an open soldered connection of the armature to commutator leads is found during inspection, it may be resoldered provided resin flux is used for soldering.
CAUTION: Acid flux must never be used on electrical connections. Turning the Commutator When inspection shows commutator roughness, it should be cleaned as follows:
Brush Holder Replacement
If brush holders are damaged they can be replaced by special service units which are attached with screws and nuts. Assembly After all parts have been thoroughly tested and inspected and worn or damaged parts replaced, the generator should be reassembled. Pack ball bearings with high melting point ball bearing grease before assembly.
CAUTION: When performing this test make sure the positive post of the battery is connected to the generator armature terminal. Otherwise the residual magnetism of the generator will be reversed, thereby reversing the polarity of the generator.
Installation
While electrical adjustments are made with the regulator on the car as outlined under Checks and Adjustments on the Vehicle, it is necessary to remove the regulator for cleaning contact points and adjusting air gaps on the three regulator units.
To remove the regulator it is merely necessary to disconnect the leads from the regulator terminals and remove this crews securing the regulator to the fender skirt baffle (fig. 39).
Electrical settings must be checked and adjusted after making mechanical adjustments described below. Before installing regulator cover, make sure the rubber gasket is in place on the regulator base.
Regulator contact points will not operate indefinitely without some attention. Dirty or oxidized contact points arc and burn, cause reduced generator output and run down batteries. It has been found that a great majority of all regulator troubles can be corrected by a simple cleaning of contact points plus possibly some readjustment. If the points are properly cleaned the regulator will be restored to normal operation. If improperly cleaned, improvement in performance will be small and only temporary.
To clean the contact points, remove cover and loosen the upper contact bracket mounting screws so that the bracket can be tilted to one side (fig. 40). For greater accessibility in cleaning, the contact brackets may be removed. If removed great care must be exercised to reinstall them as described under Replacing Upper Contact Support Brackets.
Use a spoon or riffler file and file each point separately. Never use sandpaper or emery cloth to clean the contact points because particles of embedded grit in the regulator points will cause them to arc and corrode. Do not Me contact points excessively.
The large flat contact point, located on the armature of both current and voltage regulator units, always develops a slight cavity (fig. 41) and will require the most attention. It is not necessary to have a flat surface on this contact point, but a riffler file should be used to remove all oxides so that pure metal is exposed.
The small soft-alloy contact point, located on the upper contact support of current and voltage regulator units, does not oxidize. This contact point may be cleaned with crocus cloth, or other fine abrasive material, followed by a thorough wash with clean carbon tetrachloride to remove any foreign material remaining on the contact surface.
The upper contact support brackets may be replaced where desired. See Replacing Upper Contact Support Brackets.
Voltage Regulator Air Gap
Voltage or current regulator contact support brackets can be replaced by carefully noting the relationship of the parts as they are removed (fig. 45). Note particularly that the connector strap is insulated from both the voltage regulator contact mounting screws and the current regulator contact mounting screws. New insulators should always be used when installing a contact support bracket since the old insulators may be distorted or damaged.
If it becomes necessary to replace the spiral spring on either the current or voltage regulator unit, the new spring should first be hooked on the lower spring support and then stretched up until it can be hooked at the upper end. Stretch the spring only by means of a screwdriver blade inserted between the turns. Do not pry the spring into place, as this is likely to bend the spring supports. After installing a new spring, readjust the unit setting as already described.
Installation
The installation of radio by-pass condensers on the field terminal of the regulator or generator will cause the regulator contact points to bum and oxidize so that generator output will be reduced and a rundown battery will result. If a condenser is found connected to either of these terminals, remove the condenser and clean the regulator contact points as previously explained. Never Connect Radio By-pass Condensers to the Field Terminal of the Regulator or Generator.
After reconnecting leads, momentarily connect a jumper lead between
the "GEN" and "BAT" terminals of the regulator.
This allows a momentary surge of current to flow through the generator
which correctly polarizes it. Failure to do this may result in
severe damage to the equipment since reversed polarity causes
vibration, arcing, and burning of the relay contact points.
Starting Circuit
The starting circuit, which includes the starting motor, solenoid and battery, has only one function to perform-to crank the engine. The battery (see Generating Circuit) supplies the energy, the solenoid completes the circuit to the starting motor, and the motor then does the actual work of cranking the engine.
The starting motor (fig. 46) consists primarily of the drive mechanism, frame, armature, brushes, and field windings. The starting motor is a 12 volt extruded frame type unit. The drive end housing is extended to enclose the entire shift lever and plunger mechanism, protecting them from dirt, splash and icing conditions. Flange mounted onto the drive end housing, the solenoid is sealed to the housing by a sealing compound. With the Turboglide Transmission the starter is pad mounted to the motor block. The compression type shift lever return spring is located inside the solenoid case. Series fields of the starter are connected directly to the motor terminal of the solenoid. A rubber grommet assembled in the frame around the coil leads insulates the strap from ground and also prevents dirt, water and oil from entering the motor.
The motor has four pole shoes and four fields connected in series with the armaturefig. 47 . A small diameter overrunning clutch type of drive is used to engage the cranking motor pinion with the flywheel fig. 48 . The flange mounted solenoid switch operates the overrunning clutch drive by means of a linkage to shift lever. When the solenoid is energized, the shift lever is moved, shifting the cranking motor pinion into mesh with the flywheel. The main contacts of the solenoid are then closed so that battery current is delivered to the starting motor. The overrunning action of this clutch protects the starting motor from excessive speed when the engine fires.
The armature shaft and clutch have mating splines which prevent transmission of full cranking power until the clutch pinion is fully engaged in the flywheel ring gear. A special "assist" spring is located around the armature shaft between the end fiber of the armature and the collar of the clutch shaft. This spring aids the solenoid in overcoming the return spring force in the first movement of the clutch along the armature shaft. A pinion stop, consisting of a snap ring and retainer and a thrust collar assembled on the armature shaft takes all the end thrust.
The brush rigging has brush arm supports attached directly to the extruded section of the field frame. One ground brush and one insulated brush are pivoted from the same brush holder support; thus only two brush holder supports are required for the four brushes. A single ribbon type spring applies tension to each pair of brushes.
The magnetically operated solenoid switch closes and opens the circuit between the battery and cranking motor. It also shifts the drive pinion of the starting motor into mesh with the teeth on the engine flywheel so the engine can be cranked. To accomplish this action, a shift plunger, linked to the shift lever, is drawn into the solenoid when the solenoid windings are energized.
There are two windings in the solenoid, a pull-in winding, which
is shorted out as the solenoid contacts close; and a hold-in winding
which holds the plunger in the solenoid as long as the starting
motor circuit is not broken. When the ignition and starting switch
is turned to the "START" position, the battery energizes
both the "pull-in" and "hold-in" coils, causing
the plunger to pull the pinion into mesh with the flywheel teeth
(fig. 49). The plunger
movement, continued, closes the switch contacts, thus permitting
the starting motor to crank the engine. The "pull-in"
coil draws a comparatively heavy current for a short interval.
This is needed to engage the pinion. The "hold-in" coil
also aids the "pull-in" coil. As soon as the main contacts
of the solenoid switch are closed (and the pinion shifted), the
"pull-in" coil is short circuited by the contacts in
the starting motor circuit so that only the "hold-in"
coil draws current. The solenoid is also provided with a "R"
(resistor) terminal for by-passing the engine resistor during
cranking.
Periodic Servicing
No periodic lubrication of the starting motor or solenoid is required. Since the starting motor and brushes cannot be inspected without disassembling the unit, no service is required on these units between overhaul periods.
Although the starting motor cannot be checked against specifications on the car, a check can be made for excessive resistance in the starting circuit. Place a voltmeter across points in the cranking circuit indicated below and observe the reading with the starting switch closed and the motor cranking (distributor primary lead grounded to prevent engine firing).
From battery positive post To solenoid battery terminal
From battery negative post To starting motor housing
From solenoid battery terminal To solenoid motor terminal
If voltage drop in any of above checks exceeds 0.2 volt, excessive resistance is indicated in that portion of starting circuit and the cause of the excessive resistance should be located and corrected in order to obtain maximum efficiency in the circuit.
CAUTION: Do not operate the starting motor continuously for more than 30 seconds to avoid overheating.
When the solenoid fails to pull in, the trouble may be due to excessive voltage drop in the solenoid control circuit. To check for this condition, close the starting switch and measure the voltage drop between the
BATTERY terminal of the solenoid and the SWITCH (S) terminal of the solenoid.
Starting Motor
Solenoid
Pinion Clearance Adjustment
Starting Motor
Removal
Disassembly
Cleaning and Inspection
With the starting motor completely disassembled, except for removal of field coils, the component parts should be cleaned and inspected as described below. Field coils need be removed only where defects in the coils are indicated by the tests described below, in which case the pole shoe screws should be removed and the pole shoes and field coils disassembled. Any defective parts should be replaced or repaired (see Repairs).
Refer to Figure 47 for starting motor internal circuit diagram. Use a test lamp capable of detecting high resistance grounds. Armature Test for Shorts Check the armature for short circuits by placing on growler and holding hack saw blade over armature core while armature is rotated (fig. 56). If saw blade vibrates, armature is shorted. Recheck after cleaning between the commutator bars. If saw blade still vibrates, replace the armature.
Armature Test for Ground Place one lead on the armature core or shaft and the other on the commutator (fig. 57). If the lamp lights, the armature is grounded and must be replaced. Field Coil Test for Open Circuit Place one lead on each end of the field coils (fig. 58). If the lamp does not light, the field coils are open and will require replacement. Field Coil Test for Ground Place one lead on the connector bar and the other on the field frame (fig. 59). If the lamp lights, the field coils are grounded.
Repairs Loose Electrical Connections When an open soldered connection of the armature to commutator leads is found during inspection, it may be resoldered provided resin flux is used for soldering. CAUTION: Acid flux must never be used on electrical connections. When inspection shows commutator roughness, it should be cleaned as follows:
Brush Holder Replacement
If brush holders are damaged, they can be replaced by special service units which are attached with screws and nuts.
Assembly
After all parts have been thoroughly tested and inspected and worn or damaged parts replaced, the generator should be reassembled.
After reassembly, a "Free Speed" check of the starting motor may be made if equipment is available. To make this check, connect a 12 volt battery in series with an ammeter to the starting motor terminal and ground. Use a mechanical drive type tachometer to determine the speed reached by the starting motor. Failure of the starting motor to perform according to the following specifications may be due to tight or dirty bushings, or high resistance connections.
Volts-10.6
Amperes-49-76
RPM-6200-9400
Installation
Removal
Replacement of Contacts
Testing Current Draw of Windings
Refer to Figure 62.
To check the current draw of the hold-in winding, connect a variable source of voltage (in series with an ammeter) to the switch terminal of the solenoid and ground. To check the current draw of both windings, ground the solenoid motor connector strap terminal, and connect a source of voltage (in series with an ammeter) to the switch terminal of the solenoid and ground. Current draw should be: Hold-in Winding 10-12 Amperes at 10 Volts Both Windings 40-45 Amperes at 10 Volts
CAUTION: Either of the above checks must be completed in a minimum length of time to prevent heating of the solenoid windings. Heating will cause the current draw readings to be below the specifications which are based on a temperature of 80 F.
Installation
The pinion clearance should be checked after motor has been disassembled
and then reassembled. If clearance is not within specified limits
(.010-.040) it may indicate excessive wear of solenoid linkage
shift lever yoke buttons or improper assembly of the shift lever
mechanism. Worn or defective parts should be replaced since no
provision is made for adjusting of pinion clearance.
Ignition Circuit
The basic function of the ignition circuit is to produce and deliver high voltage surges to the correct spark plug at the correct interval of time to fire the spark plug. The 12-volt ignition system in all 1957 Passenger car models provides adequate ignition reserve to meet all performance levels. The ignition circuit (fig. 64) includes the distributor, ignition coil, ignition resistor, ignition switch, spark plugs, and the battery.
Six Cylinder Engine
The distributor for the six cylinder engine (fig. 65) is mounted on the right side of engine. It incorporates the distributor points which open and close to make and break the primary circuit, the condenser which prevents arcing at the points and aids in breaking down the magnetic field in the coil, the mechanical spark advance mechanism which advances and retards the spark with changes in engine speed, the distributor cap which has the terminals for high tension current distribution to the spark plugs and the rotor which distributes the high tension current to the terminals in the cap.
The vacuum spark control is attached to the distributor bracket and connects to the distributor. The diaphragm chamber is connected to the carburetor so that engine vacuum can advance the spark and also retard it when engine vacuum decreases on acceleration.
The distributor housing is designed to pilot down into the right side of cylinder block. A drive gear is located near the lower end of shaft and meshes with a gear on the engine camshaft to drive the distributor shaft at camshaft speed. A plate fitted with pivot pins for the governor weights is attached near the top of the shaft. The weights are placed on the pivots, the cam assembly is placed over the top of shaft and the springs are installed (fig. 67). A hold-down plate is then installed over the governor.
The stationary breaker plate, which is internally grounded, sets directly above the governor mechanism and is attached to the distributor housing. The stationary distributor point and support sets over the pivot pin on the breaker plate and is held in place by a lock screw. The location of this point can be moved for point gap adjustment by loosening the lock screw and turning the eccentric adjusting screw as desired. The other point and arm assembly is fitted with an insulating bushing which pilots over the pivot pin. The breaker arm is fitted with a fiber block which extends out toward the cam. As the cam turns the lobes contact the fiber block and cause the points to open.
The condenser is attached to the breaker plate and the lead is connected to the insulated terminal at the point where the breaker arm connects. This places the condenser across the breaker points. The rotor attaches to the top of the cam and turns at camshaft speed. The distributor cap sets on top of the housing with a positioning lug engaging a groove in the housing. Clamps hold the cap in position. The center terminal of the cap engages the spring contact of the rotor to transmit high tension current from the coil to the rotor. As the rotor turns the current can be transmitted to the different spark plug wire terminals.
The "external adjustment type" distributor (fig. 66) used on the eight cylinder engine is of a new design but functions basically the same as that used on the six cylinder engine. The new distributor is a 12 volt, 8 cylinder unit. A "window" in the cap allows dwell angle adjustment with the engine running. The circuit breaker plate is located below the centrifugal advance mechanism and uses the outer diameter of the main shaft bushing for its bearing surface. The movable plate is held in position by a retainer clip in the upper shaft bushing. The molded rotor serves as a cover for the centrifugal advance mechanism. The vacuum control unit is mounted to the distributor housing under the movable breaker plate. The contact set is attached to the movable breaker plate. The service replacement contact set has the breaker lever spring tension and point augment pre-adjusted and is serviced as one complete assembly and only the dwell angle requires adjustment after replacement.
To get the best performance and economy from the engine at all speeds and under all load conditions it is necessary to change the ignition timing with variations in speed and load conditions. This is done automatically by two methods.
With the engine at idling speed, the spark will occur according to the timing setting. As the engine speed increases the centrifugal weights in the distributor (fig. 67) start to swing outward advancing the spark. This continues until the engine reaches a speed at which maximum advance is obtained (see (Specifications). As engine speed decreases the springs pull the weights inward, retarding the spark and providing governor advance in direct relation to engine speed.
A vacuum spark advance mechanism is provided to improve performance and economy on engines operating under part-throttle conditions by supplying additional spark advance at times when a high vacuum exists in the engine manifold. This mechanism which is connected to the distributor, has a diaphragm chamber connected to the carburetor so that manifold vacuum causes the vacuum spark control diaphragm to compress the spring and advance the spark by rotating the distributor housing on the 6-cylinder engine and the distributor movable breaker plate on the 8-cylinder engine. This advances the spark to the maximum, but only with comparatively high manifold vacuum. Each time the throttle is opened wider for acceleration the manifold vacuum decreases retarding the spark to prevent excessive detonation. At high vehicle speed with nearly wide open throttle the vacuum is low; therefore the vacuum spark advance is not in operation. However, under this condition maximum centrifugal advance is in use.
The ignition coil (fig. 68) is an oil-filled, hermetically-sealed unit designed specifically for use with an external resistor in the 12-volt system. The ignition coil transforms low voltage battery current to a high voltage current which will jump the gap at the spark plugs. The coil consists of a soft laminated core over which is placed high voltage (secondary) winding and low voltage (primary) winding. This assembly is carefully insulated and placed in a metal container, filled with transformer oil and hermetically sealed to prevent entrance of moisture. The external resistor, connected in series with the primary circuit between the battery and coil (fig. 64), dissipates nearly half the heat which otherwise would be generated within the coil itself. The resistor is wound with wire which changes resistance only slightly with temperature. This characteristic prevents excessive primary current at low temperatures and thus reduces the tendency for the contact points to oxidize in cold weather.
To obtain greatly improved starting performance at low temperatures, the resistor,," is by-passed during cranking, thereby connecting the ignition coil directly to the battery. This makes full battery voltage available to the coil and thus keeps ignition voltage as high as possible during cranking.
CAUTION: If the ignition switch is used to complete the circuit to the cranking motor while making underhood cranking tests, the distributor primary lead must be grounded to prevent engine firing.
The key-operated ignition-starting switch is located in the low tension circuit between the battery and the coil (ignition circuit) and between the battery and the starting motor (starting circuit). It is used to make or break the ignition primary circuit when starting or stopping the engine and to complete the circuit to activate the solenoid and starting motor for cranking.
The ignition-starting switch has four positions: LOCK, OFF, ON, and START. To operate, turn switch to START. As soon as the engine starts, release switch, which will return to ON position. The key is required only when turning to or from LOCK position.
Spark Plugs
AC 44 14 mm. spark plugs are provided as original equipment on
all passenger car models. One plug is positioned in each combustion
chamber to provide for the spark to ignite the combustion mixture.
Additional plugs are provided for service use and are described
under Spark Plugs-Servicing of Units Off the Vehicle.
Periodic Servicing
The distributor and spark plugs are the only ignition system components that require periodic service. The remainder of the ignition system requires only periodic inspection to check operation of the units, tightness of the electrical connections, and condition of the wiring. When checking the coil, test with a reputable tester.
Six Cylinder Engine
Every 1000 Miles
Tighten grease cup one full turn. Fill cup with lubricant when necessary.
Every 5000 Miles
Eight Cylinder Engine
Every 1000 Miles
Fill hinge cap oiler with SAE-20 oil.
Every 20,000 to 25,000 Miles
Distributors equipped with cam lubricator should have the wick replaced at the same time contact point set is replaced. It is not necessary to lubricate the breaker cam when using a cam lubricator. Do not attempt to lubricate the wick-Replace when necessary.
When installing a new wick, adjust its position so the end of the wick just touches the lobe of the breaker cam.
Spark Plugs
Spark plugs should be removed, inspected, cleaned and regapped
every 5000 miles. Defective plugs should be replaced. See Servicing
of Units Off the Vehicle.
Checks and Adjustments on the Vehicle
Timing
Ignition Circuit Checks
Timing
For efficient operation the ignition must be properly timed. This operation is described under Tune-up in Section 6. Setting Dwell Angle-Eight Cylinder Distributor To adjust the dwell angle (contact point opening), run the engine at idle and raise the window provided in the distributor cap. Insert a hex type wrench into the head of the adjusting screw as shown in figure 69. A tool for easy adjustment of external adjustment type distributors is available through the Kent Moore Organization under Tool 6269. Either of two methods may be used to set the dwell angle:
la. Turn the adjusting screw until the specified dwell angle of
28 to 32 with 30 preferred, is obtained
as measured by a dwell meter.
2a. Turn the adjusting screw in (clockwise) until the engine begins
to miss, then turn one-half turn in
the opposite direction. (This method used only when dwell
meter is not available.) Since the
contact point set is factory aligned on assembly, dwell
angle is the only necessary adjustment.
Ignition Circuit Checks
If the checks outlined under General Trouble Shooting indicate that the ignition system is at fault, the following checks may be made to help locate the difficulty. All checks are to be made with the lights and accessories off and in the sequence shown. Voltage readings referred to are indicated on Figure 70. If the engine starts but immediately stops when the starting switch is released from the START position steps 1-4 may be omitted.
Step No., Operation
Specification
Possible Trouble
1. Check all connections in Primary and Secondary circuit.
2 Remove secondary coil lead from distributor cap. Hold 1/4 inch
from engine while cranking, and
observe if spark occurs.
If spark occurs, check ...
Distributor Cap.
Rotor.
Spark plug wiring.
3. Check Voltage V-1 while cranking.
1 Volt Max.
Open in ignition circuit used during cranking.
Ignition switch not closing ignition circuit used during cranking.
Ground in circuit from coil terminal to ignition switch.
Ground in coil.
4. Check Voltage V-2 ignition switch "On," points
open.
Normal Battery Voltage.
Low battery.
Points not open.
Ground in circuit from coil to distributor.
Ground in distributor.
Ground in coil.
Ground in ignition circuit used during cranking or in the
lead connecting the coil to the
resistor.
5. Check Voltage V-2 ignition switch "On," points closed.
5 to 7 Volts If over 7, check ...
Contacts not closed Loose.
Loose connection in distributor.
Distributor not grounded to engine.
Faulty contacts-if faulty, recheck Step 5.
Loose connection between coil and distributor.
Resistor out of circuit due to shorted or incorrect wiring.
Starting contacts of ignition switch stay closed.
Resistor has too little resistance.
Resistance should be 1.40 to 1.65 ohms.
Coil primary is open.
If under 5, check ...
Loose connection from resistor through ignition switch circuit
to battery.
Loose connection between resistor and coil.
Resistor is open or has too much resistance.
Resistance should be 1.40 to 1.65 ohms.
6. Check Voltage V-3 ignition switch "On," points
closed.
0.2 Volts Max.
Contacts not closed.
Loose connection in distributor.
Distributor not grounded to engine.
Faulty contacts-if faulty, recheck Step 5.
NOTE: The voltage drop across the distributor points
should not exceed 0.125 Volts.
7. Check Voltage V-4 ignition switch "On," points
closed.
0.7 Volts Max.
Loose connection from resistor through ignition switch circuit
to battery.
8. If these checks fail to find cause of trouble remove distributor,
coil, and resistor from engine
and check to specifications. Also check wiring harness.
Servicing of units off the Vehicle
Distributor Contact Points
Distributor Condenser
Distributor-Six Cylinder Engine
Distributor-Eight Cylinder Engine
Coil Replacement
Resistor Replacement
Ignition Switch Replacement
Spark Plugs
Distributor Contact points
Criteria for Replacing Points
Examine the distributor points. Dirty points should be cleaned with a clean point file. Normal point condition is an overall gray color. If a test instrument for checking resistance is available, check the point resistance. The criteria for point quality should be a combination of visual inspection and a resistance or voltage drop check. If the points are badly worn, pitted or misaligned, replacement is recommended. If, with the points closed and the ignition switch in the ON position, there is less than a 0.125 volt drop across the points, the points may be considered satisfactory for further use. This check may be made with a sensitive voltmeter or one of the various point resistance meters available for this purpose.
Abnormal Point Wear
Under normal operating conditions, distributor contact points will provide many thousands of miles of service. Points which have undergone several thousand miles of operation will have a rough surface, but this should not be interpreted as meaning that the points are worn out. If the roughness between the points matches so that a large contact area is maintained, the points with continue to provide satisfactory service until most of the tungsten is worn off.
However, if the points burn or pit, they will soon become unsatisfactory for further operation. Not only must they be replaced, but the ignition system and engine must be checked to determine the cause of the trouble so it can be eliminated. Unless the condition causing the point burning or pitting is corrected, the new points will provide no better service than the old points.
Burning of Points
Contact point burning will result from high voltage, presence of oil or other foreign material, defective condenser and improper point adjustment. High voltage causes an excessively high current flow through the contact points which burns them rapidly. High voltage can result from an improperly adjusted or inoperative voltage regulator.
Oil or crankcase vapors which work up into the distributor and deposit on the point surfaces will cause them to burn rapidly. The is easy to detect since the oil produces a smudgy line under the contact points. Clogged engine breather pipes permit crankcase pressure to force oil or vapors up into the distributor. Over-oiling the distributor will also produce the condition.
If the contact point opening is too small (cam angle too large), the points will be closed too large a part of the total operating time. Average current flow through the points will be too high so the points will burn rapidly and arcing will occur between the points resulting in low secondary voltage and engine miss.
High series resistance in the condenser circuit will prevent normal condenser action so the contact points will burn rapidly. This resistance may be caused by a loose condenser mounting or lead connection, or by poor connections inside the condenser. See Distributor Condenser in this section for a discussion of condenser testing.
Pitting of Points
Contact point pitting results from an out-of balance condition in the ignition system which causes transfer of tungsten from one point to the other so that a tip builds up on one point while a pit forms in the other (fig. 71 and fig. 72). The direction in which the tungsten transfers can be used as a basis for analysis and correction of pitting. For instance, if the material transfers from the negative to the positive point (fig. 71), one or more of these corrections may be made: increase condenser capacity; shorten condenser lead; separate distributor-to-coil low and high tension leads; move these leads closer to ground.
If the material transfers from the positive to the negative point (fig. 72), reduce condenser capacity, move distributor-to-coil leads closer together, move these leads away from ground, or lengthen condenser lead.
Cleaning of Points
Dirty contact points should be dressed with a few strokes of a clean, fine-cut contact file. The file should not be used on other metals and should not be allowed to become greasy or dirty. Never use emery cloth to clean contact points. Contact surfaces, after considerable use, may not appear bright and smooth, but this is not necessarily an indication that they are not functioning satisfactorily. Do not attempt to remove all roughness nor dress the point surfaces down smooth; merely remove scale or dirt.
Badly burned or pitted contact points should be replaced and the cause of trouble determined so it can be eliminated. High resistance or loose connections in the condenser circuit, oil or foreign materials on the contact surfaces, improper point adjustment or high voltages may cause oxidized contact points. Check for these conditions where burned contacts are experienced. An out-of balance condition in the ignition system, often the result of too much or too little condenser capacity, is indicated where point pitting is encountered.
Setting and Alignment of Points-6 Cylinder Distributor
The point opening of new points can be checked with a feeler gauge, but the use of a feeler gauge on rough or uncleaned used points is not recommended since accurate gauging cannot be done on such points. The gauge measures between high spots on the points instead of the true point opening (fig. 73). Contact points must be set to the proper opening. Points set too close may tend to burn and pit rapidly. Points with excessive separation tend to cause a weak spark at high speed. Proper point settings for all models are:
.019" new points
.016" used points
New points must be set to the larger opening as the rubbing block will wear down slightly while seating to the cam. Contact points should be cleaned before adjusting if they have been in service.
To adjust contact point opening:
NOTE: Cam angle readings taken at speeds above 1750 engine RPM may prove unreliable an some cam angle meters.
Contact Point Pressure The contact point pressure must fall within specified limits. Weak tension will cause chatter resulting in arcing and burning of the points and an ignition miss at high speed, while excessive tension will cause undue wear of the contact points, cam and rubbing block. Breaker arm spring tension should be 19-23 ounces. The contact point pressure should be checked with a spring gauge. The scale should be hooked to the breaker lever and the pull exerted at 90 degrees to the breaker lever as shown in Figure 75. The reading should be taken just as the points separate. The pressure can be adjusted by bending the breaker lever spring. If the pressure is excessive, it can be decreased by pinching the spring carefully (fig. 76). To increase pressure, the lever must be removed from the distributor so the spring can be bent away from the lever. Avoid excessive spring distortion.
NOTE: For ease in adjustment of spring tension on new points, the breaker lever as received will produce a tension exceeding specifications.
Contact Point Replacement
Six Cylinder Distributor
NOTE: End of cam lubricant wick should be adjusted to just touch cam lobes. Over lubrication of cam resulting in grease on contact points can be caused by cam lubrication wick bearing too hard against cam surface. A correctly adjusted cam lubricator wick will provide adequate lubrication for cam. Do not apply additional grease to cam surface.
Adjusting Dwell Angle
Either of the two following methods may be used to adjust the dwell angle (point setting) to the proper setting off the vehicle.
Performance
The following four factors affect condenser performance and each factor must be considered in making any condenser test.
Breakdown - a failure of the insulating material direct short between the metallic elements of the condenser. This prevents any condenser action.
Low Insulation Resistance (Leakage) - prevents condenser from holding a charge. All condensers are subject to leakage which up to a certain limit is not objectionable.
High Series Resistance - excessive resistance in the condenser circuit due to broken strands in condenser lead or to defective connections. This will cause burned points and ignition failure upon initial start and at high speeds.
Capacity - determined by the area of the metallic elements and the insulating and impregnating materials.
For a complete check of the condenser, use a tester which will check for the above conditions. Follow the instructions given by the manufacturer of the test equipment. Condenser capacity should be .18-.23 microfarad.
Six Cylinder Distributor
Install rotor, place cap in position and hook clamps. Install numbers 1, 2, and 3 spark plug wires.
Eight Cylinder Distributor
Removal
Disassembly
Before disassembling distributor it is advisable to place the distributor in a distributor testing machine or synchroscope and, after adjusting point gap, test distributor for variation of spark, correct centrifugal and vacuum advance (see Specifications). This test will give valuable information on distributor condition and indicate parts replacement which may be necessary. Check area on breaker Plate just beneath breaker points. A smudgy line indicates that oil or crankcase vapors have been present between points.
Cleaning and Inspection
Assembly
Installation-Engine Not Disturbed
Installation-Engine Disturbed
